And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
Short leash for a big wave. The guy was 'trunking it' though the water is cold. Also, he was shoulder hopping the rider. Either that or he didn't get under the wave well enough.
That's Ship Stearn in Australia. Gnarly wave, have to be certifiable to surf that. Double or triple wave form upon the main wave. Massively thick lip. Boils, tons of rocks in the takeoff zone.
Landings feel like cncrete.
ReplyDeleteEvery time I see a pic like this The Surfaris Wipeout drums automatically kicks in.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBURLdhmmZ8
DeleteDon't look good. Long way to go. wondering where that board is going to land behind you.
ReplyDeleteHe has a leash most big wave surfers do not use one.
ReplyDeleteShort leash for a big wave. The guy was 'trunking it' though the water is cold. Also, he was shoulder hopping the rider. Either that or he didn't get under the wave well enough.
ReplyDeleteThat's Ship Stearn in Australia. Gnarly wave, have to be certifiable to surf that. Double or triple wave form upon the main wave. Massively thick lip. Boils, tons of rocks in the takeoff zone.