And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
I learned to surf the two to four foot waves of St. Augustine in my late teens. At 19 I got a chance to go to California where I surfed the four to six foot waves with no problem. In my mid 20's I was in Hawaii and saw the 20 foot waves, F that.
Never tried a board, looks like gas running the green tunnel. Learned to body surf off SanDiego, that is a lot if simple easy fun, get to meet all sorts setting floating waiting for the next break to catch, and when you get set stuck out front riding down, its such a lot of really great fun getting pushed by all that water behind you. I'd spent days at a time at it. The people you meet out there is a great part of it. Funny thing, the times i body surfed, almost everyone me included was from out of town or state. Interesting. And its purely free, costs exactly zero to partake in. Some of those waves are truly huge, bigger though they are the easier to catch.
I learned to surf the two to four foot waves of St. Augustine in my late teens. At 19 I got a chance to go to California where I surfed the four to six foot waves with no problem. In my mid 20's I was in Hawaii and saw the 20 foot waves, F that.
ReplyDeleteNever tried a board, looks like gas running the green tunnel. Learned to body surf off SanDiego, that is a lot if simple easy fun, get to meet all sorts setting floating waiting for the next break to catch, and when you get set stuck out front riding down, its such a lot of really great fun getting pushed by all that water behind you. I'd spent days at a time at it. The people you meet out there is a great part of it. Funny thing, the times i body surfed, almost everyone me included was from out of town or state. Interesting. And its purely free, costs exactly zero to partake in.
DeleteSome of those waves are truly huge, bigger though they are the easier to catch.