Saturday, January 29, 2022

Retro Boards


1 comment:

  1. Surfing on a wood single fin board? I had a wide foam twin fin back in the late 70's. It would turn faster than I could. A big wave was a 5 footer at St. Augustine and most waves were 3 to 4 footers. I got a chance to surf just north of Malibu when I was 21. Nice 6 and 7 ft waves but I froze my ass off. A few days latter I got to try it again down in San Diego where the waves were 5 to 6 ft and the water much warmer. A year latter my board disappeared from home when I was at boot camp and my initial training. My duty station was MacDill and the waves coming into Tampa were pitiful.

    I can see how surfing could be addicting if you had decent waves and lived in a coastal town. Even though I grew up 45 minutes from the GA coast my parent had a condo two hours south in south St. Augustine. Waves in GA are too small. All the rivers dumping into the ocean break up the waves. A week or two in St. Augustine in the summer with a weekend at least once a month when the water was warm was all I got to spend there as it was on a rental program that basically paid the loan and condo fees. There were a lot of times the waves were not agreeable to surfing.