“Malo periculosam, libertatem quam quietam servitutem.”
Surfing on a wood single fin board? I had a wide foam twin fin back in the late 70's. It would turn faster than I could. A big wave was a 5 footer at St. Augustine and most waves were 3 to 4 footers. I got a chance to surf just north of Malibu when I was 21. Nice 6 and 7 ft waves but I froze my ass off. A few days latter I got to try it again down in San Diego where the waves were 5 to 6 ft and the water much warmer. A year latter my board disappeared from home when I was at boot camp and my initial training. My duty station was MacDill and the waves coming into Tampa were pitiful.I can see how surfing could be addicting if you had decent waves and lived in a coastal town. Even though I grew up 45 minutes from the GA coast my parent had a condo two hours south in south St. Augustine. Waves in GA are too small. All the rivers dumping into the ocean break up the waves. A week or two in St. Augustine in the summer with a weekend at least once a month when the water was warm was all I got to spend there as it was on a rental program that basically paid the loan and condo fees. There were a lot of times the waves were not agreeable to surfing.