And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
I learned how to surf in 3 to 5 foot waves off the east coast of Florida as a teen. When I was 20 I got to surf 5 to 7 foot waves in California and had a blast. In my 30's I went to Hawaii and saw 12 to 16 foot waves and said no F'ing way. I knew I didn't have the skills necessary.
I bet he is falling into a couple of feet of water with the board and a ton or so water falling on him. I bet he takes a bottle of Advil that night, too.
Looks like Teahupo Tahiti. That's one of the heaviest waves, and breaks over about 2 ft of water, and coral bottom. Can and has been fatal to wipeout here.
Both of them are going to chew it.
ReplyDeleteI learned how to surf in 3 to 5 foot waves off the east coast of Florida as a teen. When I was 20 I got to surf 5 to 7 foot waves in California and had a blast. In my 30's I went to Hawaii and saw 12 to 16 foot waves and said no F'ing way. I knew I didn't have the skills necessary.
ReplyDeleteHowfar do you figure the guy had to fall?
ReplyDeleteAnd as a bonus, after the fall, the board cord ensures he gets a 5' fiberglass enema.
ReplyDeleteKook.
I bet he is falling into a couple of feet of water with the board and a ton or so water falling on him. I bet he takes a bottle of Advil that night, too.
ReplyDeleteThe guy at bottom is going to get dumped on as well. Ouch.
ReplyDeleterinse,spin, repeat.
ReplyDeleteLooks like Teahupo Tahiti. That's one of the heaviest waves, and breaks over about 2 ft of water, and coral bottom. Can and has been fatal to wipeout here.
ReplyDelete