And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
The first 15 years of my life was spent on O'ahu. I didn't surf until coming to CA. Body surfing, diving, swimming, sailing, fishing, but no surfing. Strange for a gift from HI to the world.
Since then I have surfed many times when returning to the islands.
Tom Blake carved a strake in the bottom. Kind of a short semi-keel. From that evolved the fin. The hot curl was others copying Blake's narrowing of the tail. The paipo was for commoners - the everyman board. The olo was for lesser nobility.
Skip Frye was instrumental. He took a template like the Velzy but shortened it quite a bit. George Greenough really kicked the short board era into high gear.
My brother had a board just like the Greg 'The Bull' Noll shown here. Same color too. Weighed about fifty lbs, what a beast. But rock solid.
If you get a chance, watch the documentary “Riding Giants”. It pretty much starts after WW2 and features Greg Noll a lot for the earlier stuff and then moves on. Let’s of great surfing.
After 55 years now I'm back to the longboard.
ReplyDeleteMy family live in Hawaii in the last 50's. I went surfing only a few times. I guess that we used a "Pig."
ReplyDeleteThe first 15 years of my life was spent on O'ahu. I didn't surf until coming to CA. Body surfing, diving, swimming, sailing, fishing, but no surfing.
DeleteStrange for a gift from HI to the world.
Since then I have surfed many times when returning to the islands.
Tom Blake carved a strake in the bottom. Kind of a short semi-keel. From that evolved the fin. The hot curl was others copying Blake's narrowing of the tail.
ReplyDeleteThe paipo was for commoners - the everyman board. The olo was for lesser nobility.
Skip Frye was instrumental. He took a template like the Velzy but shortened it quite a bit.
George Greenough really kicked the short board era into high gear.
My brother had a board just like the Greg 'The Bull' Noll shown here. Same color too. Weighed about fifty lbs, what a beast. But rock solid.
CW, I enjoy that you posted this. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteIf you get a chance, watch the documentary “Riding Giants”. It pretty much starts after WW2 and features Greg Noll a lot for the earlier stuff and then moves on. Let’s of great surfing.
ReplyDelete1939 and 1975... ZOUNDS!!
ReplyDelete