Friday, June 17, 2022

Nice wood stove burning well in a log cabin. Not much better than that.

 


10 comments:

  1. the steel panel is a good idea, but I would have mounted it lower or better yet, made it taller

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  2. I would have too, but then the stove is on legs, too - so maybe it's just the parallax. I notice it looks like he has some insulation board behind the sheet metal, too, another good idea. Higher up, the stove pipe is sleeved so radiant heat would be a non-issue there.

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    1. A min. 1" airgap between the shielding and combustible surface is proper. I would prefer local stone or slate for thermal mass and aesthetics.

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  3. I have installed freestanding stainless steel panels behind my wood stove which is situated in a corner much like the one pictured. The interesting phenomena is the heat is reflected into the room to such an extent that the panels are not hot at all and can be touched without injury. The wall behind the panels is not hot either.

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    1. Heat reflection is what I suspect this all about too. Otherwise, the window frames and curtains would be an issue.

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  4. There are soft red bricks behind my stove in the fireplace, not ideal as they crumble. I have toyed with the idea of getting a sheet of stone cut to fit. I'm not sure what the fire regs are here in UK but I guess they're pretty stringent.

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  5. I used air-gapped cement board covered with shiny white porcelain tiles. It looks better than raw sheet steel.

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  6. Back about 20 years ago I used copper sheet. Looked great. Never even got more than warm to the touch. Current wood stove in my log woodshop doesn't even have a heat reflector. No real need. Heat rises quickly and moves around the open space using convection - radiant heat levels don't extend sideways very far, but not to say that one shouldn't follow standard local building codes for setback distances...

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  7. One inch air gap, an inch off the floor and nonflammable spacers allow you to reduce the stove to wall clearance by 2/3.

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