And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
He got hung up in the lip. There is a massive about of wind blowing up and over them walls of water. Classic rookie mistake of not paddling further into the wave. His other mistake is wearing a leash in those mountainous waves.
Notice he never reached the bottom. Indeed, he got no lower than the top third of the wave.
Bummer. That is one serious wave.
ReplyDeleteGood thing he was away from the beach. Could have had a hard landing. I got slammed into the ground just body surfing.
ReplyDeleteThere was no water under the board just air. The wave was starting to roll over so he was a little late on the start.
ReplyDeleteHe got hung up in the lip. There is a massive about of wind blowing up and over them walls of water.
ReplyDeleteClassic rookie mistake of not paddling further into the wave.
His other mistake is wearing a leash in those mountainous waves.
Notice he never reached the bottom. Indeed, he got no lower than the top third of the wave.
Did they recover the body?
ReplyDelete