And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
Monday, March 21, 2022
1965, down the road from me in Cottonwood. Not running, and asking 1,500.00. Good deal? Bad deal? Meh?
I disagree. These old trucks are so easy to fix that "not running" is the least of your problems. I would check for serious rust or accident damage. Total miles, condition of the bed, etc.
That's a good deal if you have time to work on it and you CAN work on 1965 vehicles, unlike the computerized vehicles made today. Old duelies like that are popular around here in South Carolina.
CW, is it a F-500? I would buy it and restore it to working order and rust removed! That will run on and on iffn' ya take care of it. You get it into running condition and ask a heck a lot more then that.
Well, it looks like 4WD, and if you can get it to Paul at Fab Rats, he could get it running and make it into something worthwhile. You probably have a mechanic closer than southern Utah that can do a good job. I agree with those who say $500, or at least that’s what I would offer. Plan on buying a lot of WD-40 for all the exterior stuff.
I was once told that the best test for that sort of rig is to take a wire brush underneath the rear of the cab. If the body rot is so bad your brush pokes holes, it's a goner. One of the harder life lessons I've had to learn: Some projects are NOT worth the effort.
Just remember it will drive like a 55 year-old 1 ton truck. If it has a straight-6 I would say, go for it - but only once you've had someone competent look it over and see what's missing, and what's going to need replacing. They make weld-in replacements for the cab corners in all the old trucks now for rust-outs, and a decent body man can get them in place pretty invisibly now. Doubt it's 4WD, and doubt it has a dump bed.
Looks solid and sound. Rust appears to be just surface, and not deep. If you've got the time and effort to put into a substantial restoration, it's a steal. If you don't, it's a really big boat anchor. I'd snatch it up in a heartbeat, make a shelter for it, and get to work, figuring it's going to take a month of Sundays, to do it right.
If you have a need for a one ton dually fine. The one ton is a horse of another color. I've had a few. It looks like a good start. But if you don't need one, it takes up space for something you need.
At 1500 purchase you have room to get it running , stopping and legal to drive. Then sell it for a profit this summer or drive the poo out of it some more. The world is really your oyster if you allow it. Even if you do not make money, it may just be more fun than sitting in front of the computer .
If you have land, buy both. These will come in handy if the SHTF. Parts are worth more than 4000. But I would keep and tack and build one up and sale parts on the other.
If you have a use for the truck in running, not restored, condition, $500 if the cab floor isn't rusted through. If you are going to make a resto project out of it, $750, same caveat. Any more than that and you're getting ripped.
After you spend 10 years and 20k restoring it, you should be able to get 15 grand for it easy
I've got about $22,000 into my 70 K10 plus way too much time and Aggie is right, it drives like a 52 year old pickup. It's loud and rough, rattles and squeaks, doesn't stop too well, won't corner worth a shit and gets roughly zero miles to the gallon.
Every time I take it out for a drive though, I usually have a few guys (and some girls) ask if it's for sale. If you're into old trucks, that would be a fun one to restore.
If the Norks set off some canned sunshine a couple hundred miles above us, that truck would still be a runner, as opposed to most all the other vehicles that have electronics of any sort. Plus, it may have enough guts and gearing to push them out of your way, as the roads will have lots of crap littering the pavement.
Why do you need another project?
ReplyDeleteNever buy any vehicle not running for over $500.
ReplyDeleteGood advice!
DeleteI disagree. These old trucks are so easy to fix that "not running" is the least of your problems. I would check for serious rust or accident damage. Total miles, condition of the bed, etc.
DeleteNo way. It's rusted out, been sitting in the weather for decades. Definitely pass.
ReplyDeleteBuy them both for 1500 and run... fast.
ReplyDeleteThat's a good deal if you have time to work on it and you CAN work on 1965 vehicles, unlike the computerized vehicles made today. Old duelies like that are popular around here in South Carolina.
ReplyDeleteThe purchase price of a "Project" car or truck, no matter the amount, is simply "Earnest Money". The real expense starts upon the next day.
ReplyDeleteI'd drive that. Had a 72 that liked oil the way I like beer.
ReplyDeleteA Mexi will give you $3k or more and have an engine slapped in it in a day. 1500 is a bargain.
ReplyDeleteCW, is it a F-500? I would buy it and restore it to working order and rust removed! That will run on and on iffn' ya take care of it. You get it into running condition and ask a heck a lot more then that.
ReplyDeleteWell, it looks like 4WD, and if you can get it to Paul at Fab Rats, he could get it running and make it into something worthwhile. You probably have a mechanic closer than southern Utah that can do a good job. I agree with those who say $500, or at least that’s what I would offer. Plan on buying a lot of WD-40 for all the exterior stuff.
ReplyDeletePretty sure the extra lever in the floor is a PTO. Could be a dump bed.
DeleteFront wheel hubs are not 4x4.
DeleteLever is parking brake (drum and band right behind trans. Fun to play with but only if you need one.
I was once told that the best test for that sort of rig is to take a wire brush underneath the rear of the cab. If the body rot is so bad your brush pokes holes, it's a goner. One of the harder life lessons I've had to learn: Some projects are NOT worth the effort.
ReplyDeleteBut the holes allow the water to drain properly.
DeleteJust remember it will drive like a 55 year-old 1 ton truck. If it has a straight-6 I would say, go for it - but only once you've had someone competent look it over and see what's missing, and what's going to need replacing. They make weld-in replacements for the cab corners in all the old trucks now for rust-outs, and a decent body man can get them in place pretty invisibly now. Doubt it's 4WD, and doubt it has a dump bed.
ReplyDeleteOffer $500 cash if you want it. That's what it's worth, and if they want to sit on it for a buyer that will probably never come, let them.
ReplyDeleteLooks solid and sound. Rust appears to be just surface, and not deep. If you've got the time and effort to put into a substantial restoration, it's a steal. If you don't, it's a really big boat anchor. I'd snatch it up in a heartbeat, make a shelter for it, and get to work, figuring it's going to take a month of Sundays, to do it right.
ReplyDelete$1,500? Depends. Probably if it has a full tank of gas. Empty? $1.98.
ReplyDeleteHow’s the Camaro coming along? (Giving you the “Mom Eye”)
ReplyDeleteIf it has a 428SCJ under the hood then buy it.
ReplyDelete-Snakepit
leave it alone. you will have more headaches than the doctor can fix.
ReplyDeleteIf you have a need for a one ton dually fine. The one ton is a horse of another color. I've had a few. It looks like a good start. But if you don't need one, it takes up space for something you need.
ReplyDeleteDo you really need a hay wagon? If so, offer $400.
ReplyDeleteIf you already have one, $500 is OK for a source of parts. Otherwise, it is going to be a very heavy wallet call.
ReplyDeleteNot running. Well, it's in its natural state anyway.
ReplyDeleteAdd gas and oil. New battery and run it out iPod there.
ReplyDeleteBetter one than the one I had back in the 70’s.
At 1500 purchase you have room to get it running , stopping and legal to drive. Then sell it for a profit this summer or drive the poo out of it some more. The world is really your oyster if you allow it. Even if you do not make money, it may just be more fun than sitting in front of the computer .
ReplyDeleteMy first thought was $500. But remember, rust is not your friend. And its not so much a question of need and it is a question of "want".
ReplyDeleteIf you have land, buy both. These will come in handy if the SHTF. Parts are worth more than 4000. But I would keep and tack and build one up and sale parts on the other.
ReplyDeleteIf you have a use for the truck in running, not restored, condition, $500 if the cab floor isn't rusted through. If you are going to make a resto project out of it, $750, same caveat. Any more than that and you're getting ripped.
ReplyDeleteAfter you spend 10 years and 20k restoring it, you should be able to get 15 grand for it easy
ReplyDeleteI've got about $22,000 into my 70 K10 plus way too much time and Aggie is right, it drives like a 52 year old pickup. It's loud and rough, rattles and squeaks, doesn't stop too well, won't corner worth a shit and gets roughly zero miles to the gallon.
Every time I take it out for a drive though, I usually have a few guys (and some girls) ask if it's for sale. If you're into old trucks, that would be a fun one to restore.
If the Norks set off some canned sunshine a couple hundred miles above us, that truck would still be a runner, as opposed to most all the other vehicles that have electronics of any sort. Plus, it may have enough guts and gearing to push them out of your way, as the roads will have lots of crap littering the pavement.
ReplyDeleteIt's worth it from the pics. Square hood, dually, and a few other points....you'll be OK...
ReplyDelete