And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
Greg Noll rode a wave that big off the North Shore in 1969. Said he watched it for an hour and figured he had a 50/50 chance of survival. Then he went for it. There were giants in those days.
Ok! Here is where you say "No $$$etc way!". Too late for that individual.
ReplyDeleteGreg Noll rode a wave that big off the North Shore in 1969. Said he watched it for an hour and figured he had a 50/50 chance of survival. Then he went for it. There were giants in those days.
ReplyDeleteWhat's the difference in diving into the water or the water diving onto you?
ReplyDeleteWaves surfed at Nazaré, Portugal, have reached nearly 95 feet and that's about 93 feet higher than I want to get involved with.
ReplyDeleteOne cubic foot of seawater is approximately 64 lbs!
ReplyDeleteNo problem, just duck dive.
ReplyDeletelol
He could turn around and try to ‘punch through’…come out the backside…facing yet another.
ReplyDeleteor be held under and drown. Surprised it doesn't happen regularly.
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