And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
I'd sit still for a 2 minute explanation of the physics going on here. Never understood how you can be on the forward edge of the board without everything going wrong.
The nose of the board is falling (angled downward). But the wave is advancing. That plus bouyancy makes it look like the board is keeping its place on the wave slope.
The trick is to match the downward angle in ratio to the wave advancing. The surfer controls that.
This particular rider is showing great athleticism.
I'd sit still for a 2 minute explanation of the physics going on here.
ReplyDeleteNever understood how you can be on the forward edge of the board
without everything going wrong.
Hang Ten!
DeleteThe nose of the board is falling (angled downward). But the wave is advancing. That plus bouyancy makes it look like the board is keeping its place on the wave slope.
DeleteThe trick is to match the downward angle in ratio to the wave advancing. The surfer controls that.
This particular rider is showing great athleticism.
The word you're grasping for, in architectural terms, is "cantilever".
DeleteIs that Kai Thompson? If so, he won't be doing that again any time soon following a nasty accident where he was hit by a car. Poor kid.
ReplyDelete