And what country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance? Let them take arms. The remedy is to set them right as to facts, pardon and pacify them. What signify a few lives lost in a century or two? The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
Its more than that. Bouyancy, vector, slope, and a few other factors which must be at equalibrium for that moment of time. If, say vector decreases, the other factors must increase. As that is not physically impossible, say weight of water, or surface area of surfboard, the surfer himself must make proper adjustment or risk losing the waving or wiping out.
With all this going on, the really neat thing is the experienced surfer is making an infinite number of adjustments all while not thinking about it.
Boomers rule.
ReplyDeleteI know very little about surfing, and am stumped as to how they can stand on the front end of the surfboard without making it nosedive into the water.
ReplyDeleteThe weight of the water wall partially sitting on the back 1/3 of the board makes it solid, can't be a small wall though
DeleteCool--thanks, Bill.
Delete10-4
DeleteIts more than that. Bouyancy, vector, slope, and a few other factors which must be at equalibrium for that moment of time.
DeleteIf, say vector decreases, the other factors must increase. As that is not physically impossible, say weight of water, or surface area of surfboard, the surfer himself must make proper adjustment or risk losing the waving or wiping out.
With all this going on, the really neat thing is the experienced surfer is making an infinite number of adjustments all while not thinking about it.
correction: '... not physically possible ...'
DeleteWhat the hell's that sneaking down the inside of his right leg?
ReplyDeleteWhat makes you focus right in that area?
DeleteHanging’ Five … a 60s hit for Aussie group The Delltones (on Utube)
ReplyDeleteFront Perch
ReplyDeleteThe real truck to surfing is keeping a joint dry and being able to light it and share with other surfers.
ReplyDeleteYeah - I used to have a truck like that.
ReplyDelete